Istanbul, kiwi tea, frescoes and earthcakes

I looked Medusa in the eye and miraculously didn’t turn to stone!

When I think of Istanbul, I think of a few things. My first thought would be sipping kiwi tea at my favourite restaurant overlooking the Blue Mosque. The second is the icons and frescoes. And the third is the word Earthcakes.

Over 14 million people live in Istanbul. It is huge! But don’t let the size of the city scare you, it is vibrant, fabulous and easy to navigate and get around!

Istanbul is unique in that it is the only natural occurring transcontinental city; it traverses over Europe and Asia. As the hub of Turkish tourism, most travellers move through this bustling metropolis.  Istanbul is a must see before venturing off to the coast or further inland.

There are loads of inns, hotels, B&B’s and hostels to rest your wary head but I tend to always stay at the quaint Hotel Sultan’s Inn, a stone throw away from The Blue Mosque in the Old City which is in Europe. Being a solo traveller by choice, I have met the most wonderful people staying at this hotel. 

The Old City is the focus for most of the A-list sights and usually it is the first stop on the sight-seeing itinerary. Take your time when visiting The Blue Mosque, the intricate detail to the building is breath-taking. From the minarets on the perimeter of the Blue Mosque; to the Mihrab, a classical niche indicating the direction of the kaaba in Mecca; the domes and the prayer hall with the magnificent low hanging lightening illuminating the interior.

The Aya Sofya or the Hagia Sophia on the opposite side to The Blue Mosque on the Sultanahmet Square has a fascinating history and nowadays serves as a museum. At every turn the icons and frescoes mosaicked and painted on walls and ceiling are worth every cent you pay to get in. It is a Roman masterpiece built in the sixth century as a church but then became a mosque when the Ottoman Empire conquered the city in the 15^th century but the glistening icons remain mostly intact to this day.

On the other side of the Aya Sofya is the Basilica Cistern, a cathedral-sized underground cistern also dating back to the sixth century. Once forgotten, the cistern was accidently rediscovered by a Frenchman who was researching the Byzantine antiques in the 16^th century.  Inside the temperature is quite chilly, colourful koi swim tranquilly in the water and you are invited to feed them. You wind along wooden boardwalks that weave in-between forest of Roman marble pillars with lights shining up from their bases. The walkway winds to a cul-de-sac where two impressive statues of Medusa lie in wait. According to the myth, if you look into the eyes of Medusa, you will turn to stone.

In the same area, another must-stop is the Topkapi Palace. The lavish Ottoman lifestyle that covers over four centuries is displayed here and well worth the entrance fee. The view overlooking the Bosphorus from the grounds is also impressive. For an afternoon stroll, the Gülhane Park which used to be the hunting grounds of the Topkapi Palace is fantastic to amble through. The immaculate botanical garden also takes you down towards the Bosphorus and the Galata Bridge that spans the Golden Horn.

Taking time out from sightseeing, I love to people watch and there are a number of places you can spend ages watching people while enjoying some street food. The Hippodrome alongside The Blue Mosque has plenty of park benches where you can sit and enjoy a freshly baked Simit, Istanbul’s delicious answer to the American bagel or some recently roasted Chestnuts. Around the Galata Bridge and The New Valide Mosque you can pick up a Doner Kebab for 5TYL then after that enjoy shopping in the Spice Bazaar.

Istanbul is renowned for its shopping districts and markets. If you are in ‘the market’ to purchase a carpet, spices, clothes or a leather jacket then look no further. The Grand Bazaar attracts close on 400 thousand people annually and is great to explore. Just be aware that quite a few pick-pockets roam in these parts as well. The shopping district of Taksim, a short taxi, tram or bus ride away is also great to pick up deals.

Evenings for me are usually spent relishing a sweet cup of kiwi tea at the splendid Doy Doy that overlooks The Blue Mosque or watching my favourite basketball team participate in the FIBA EuroLeague, Tango Bourges from France playing the local Turkish teams, Fenerbache and Galasaray.  Between games, the nightlife in the Old City is grand.

The Doy Doy features on the wiki travel suggested places to eat and recommended by Hotel Sultans Inn. Their service and food fills you up, and the charm and location certainly makes it spectacular. They offer a number of different style of kebabs and in the last two years have also expanded their vegetarian menu extensively. My favourite off their menu is the kiwi tea, in all of my travels through Istanbul a highlight for me is stopping at the family owned spot and sipping my green juice as night descends on The Blue Mosque.

A wonderful cultural event is appreciating the Whirling Dervishes or Mevlevi Order, a mesmerising spiritual dance that is centuries old. The male dancers descend into a trance as they gently whirl around to traditional music performed quietly in the background. If you are lucky you may stumble upon a few free Whirling Dervish shows in a couple of the open air restaurants or Hookah Lounges. The night air in Sultanahmet becomes hugely aromatic as the stars come out; patrons participate in an unhurried and sociable Turkish tradition of a Shisha, the smoking of a waterpipe or Hookah.

An absolute must is a cruise along the Bosphorus. Overhearing two gorgeous Aussie chefs when I was in Gallipoli, they keenly stated that there are three places in the world that if you find yourself, you have to go on the water. The first was the mighty Hudson River in New York City, the second suggested by these two Aussie blokes - a romantic cruise around Venice. The third was on the Bosphorus. There are loads of cruise options around the Galata Bridge area; a cheaper option - you can even catch a ferry across the way if you so desire. 

If you have time, then visit the Chora Church, the chapel outside the city walls. It is quite a lengthy walk from Sultanahmet but you get to pass the Valens Aqueduct, the Roman aqueduct that still stands and pass more bridal dress shops than at a Bridal Fair. The church was destroyed during the Latin invasion but lovingly restored over the next few centuries. Following a similar tale as the Aya Sofya, the church was converted into a mosque then later into a museum. The picturesque frescoes date back to the 14th century.

A walking tour that is either free or consider a guided tour, but a beautiful exploration around the Old City walls is worth putting a couple of hours aside for. I went on a City Walls tour and the young guide had a colourful explanation about most things. He was extremely passionate about Turkish tiles. He made reference a few times to the recent disaster in 1999 that flattened buildings, leaving half a million homeless and killed close on 50,000 people, dear Mohammed kept referring to the natural disaster as an earthcake. The endearing term stuck and tickled me pink.

After you have walked the length and breadth of the Old City and the walls, why not treat yourself to an age old ritual of a Hamam or a Turkish Bath? I visited the Çağaloğlu Hamamı Hamamı, a three century old Hamam. I wasn’t brave enough for the full treatment by a Turkish lady but slowly spent time relaxing in all of the steam rooms.

For South African’s Istanbul is a completely affordable destination and also a cheap gateway into Europe. There is something magical about the city that keeps a number of travellers returning, including myself. Will I return, most definitely!

·         For people visiting places of worship, be respectful in these magnificent sacred spaces. Ladies please remember to pack a scarf that can double up as a head scarf. Keep quiet and be aware of prayer times.

·         The Topkapi Palace, Aya Sofya and Bascilica Cistern have an entrance fee. I would suggest doing this first thing in the morning when they open up as the queues during the ‘in-season’ can be quite long.

·         Public transport is completely affordable. Taxis are inexpensive and hailing a cab is easy. Getting across the country also has a number of options, including the low flight airline Pegasus. Take into account that most of their flights leave from the Asian side, so factor in the cost of getting to the airport.

·         Most hotels offer airport transfers. For the extra 25 Euros (Atatürk) /50 Euros (Sabiha Gokcen) one way ride per trip, it is well worth it. Most airport transfers are chauffeur driven mini-buses direct to your hotel’s doorstep.