Thursday, March 28, 2013

Two questions, I wonder how a Turkish Dancer describes his job and do they unwind after a ceremony?


The first full day in Istanbul, a Sunday. The cross legged man wasn't to considerate about the day of the week and belted out with gusto the morning prayer... At 5am! Between him and the Canadians, the night was filled with abrupt noises.

A while later daylight crept through the gaps of the curtain. I stumbled out of bed wondering what time of day it was and worked out I still had over an hour till my alarm was set. So I crawled back under the covers and attempted another round of sleep. This attempt was somewhat unsuccessful so half an hour later, I dragged myself out of bed and into the shower.

My target was to be at the breakfast room at 9am which I met easily after an extra long soak in the shower. I was the only one there, I got my favourite table overlooking the Blue Mosque. I then went and got a strong cup of Jacobs coffee and some orange juice. I sat down trying to remember what I liked from the buffet breakfast and took a sip of the coffee. Stone cold! I then decided to wash the taste away with the orange juice, and that had a distant sour taste to it. Not such a grand start! (It was discovered later that my watch was an hour ahead, so in actual fact it was only 8am and the breakfast hall only opens at 8:30am which explains the ice coffee but still no excuses for the orange juice!)


Ten minutes later I went and got some liquid out of the next urn, steam was rising from the cup as I poured, so I was a lot more content. I then poured half a glass of the red fruit juice, deciding to play it safe. The hot liquid was black Turkish Tea and the red liquid was pomegranate juice. I then settled for a big bowl of cereal as the stomach had not quite woken up yet. While I was dishing up another guest wandered in and sat at the table next to me.


As I was finishing up and planning my day the lady asked if I was travelling alone. I nodded and she said she was as well. Her next question was if I had a set itinerary to which I hadn't really besides Tuesday. She then in a fabulously forward manner (which seems the way this trip) suggested we explore together to which I strangely accepted.


Enter Anja the German. We chatted for ages at the breakfast table,  when I questioned where in Germany she is from she started with the line that I would not know it, it isn't well known. A small place called Leipzig. I laughed saying of course I knew it, Helen and Mom are visiting there in April. Anja is a mother of two boys. The youngest is at a special choir school, the oldest is at a special musical school where he plays trumpet. She is a History teacher who has studied Arabic and towards the end of the evening it was revealed that she was a professional track and field athlete where she threw the Javelin for East Germany. She truly has been fantastic company, easy going and comes up with some crackers like the tourists are climbing out of the tin can cause it has been opened, the tin can being a bus.


The two of us walked the old city from left, right, up and down. We explored the Palace, went inside the palace Hammam, wondered around the Aya Sofya discovering loads of Christian relics in the mosque.. Went across a bridge that was lined with fisherman on both sides-we had to walk under a wide road, so a tunnel beneath six lanes-the crowds were insane. Snails rushing off to mate moved faster than we could and it was like a road, you could only walk on the one side else you could become a Darwin award trampled by Turks. We cruised around a bazaar and discovered so many different spices and teas. Spices like the Chilli for your Mother-in-law or rose tea to healthy tea or fitness tea. We drank muddy coffee and ate local food at a small spot near the cistern. The chap serving us asked if he could be my boyfriend while I was here in Istanbul.


This evening we had the pleasure of enjoying a show at the cultural centre. A traditional Turkish Dancing experience. An hour long show started with the musicians playing two songs and then bowed and disappeared. A few minutes later two men appeared carrying mats, three sheeps skins and one red mat. They were placed strategically and then the two men disappeared. A minute later the band with three singers entered and sat down. And then five men with University graduation gowns entered. They sat on the sheep skins while the band played two songs. At the end of the second song, the dancers all collapsed in a prayer position but slapping the ground with their hands. The audience shuffled in their seats, now awake. The next song was an introduction, the dancers placed their gowns on the floor and then they all entered the round dance floor where all the dancers bowed to each other. Either their memories are terrible or the CD playing was stuck on repeat because they circled each other bowing to each other for ages. Eventually they moved on to the next stage where they entered a trance like state and whirled around in an anti clockwise direction with the head tilted to the right, the right hand facing up and the left cupped down. Their starch white skirts for lack of a better word, danced around them obediently floating up and down as the dancer glided in his set circle. The central dancer remained in one position but the four dancers at the circumference slowly rotated. Each song, they swapped the central point. Between songs they would cross their arms with hands placed on their shoulders and breath and then bow. They slowly moved into the next song, arms raised above their head rotating anti clockwise with the starch white skirt shimmering tent like as they spun. This went on for forty minutes. I admired the simplicity of it all, the round dance floor, the colours of the dancers, the choreography and the band harmoniously adding to the atmosphere but in my head I kept coming up with job descriptions and the best I would have to say is, I am a spinning human starfish top!


After our pure Turkish delight of an experience we strolled back to our hotel district stopping at a spot that served Turkish black tea. The air was filled by people sucking on hubbly bubblies with an apple aroma floating in the winter sky. A live band was performing with the local crowd loving it. Hardly a tourist in sight and toward the end of the evening who would share the stage with the band, but a spinning human starfish top. His hands were more freestyle, not shaped like a little tea cup, here's my handle and here's my spout.


A busy day has concluded. I have been a proper tourist today, getting a proper Turkish experience. I have to admit that being in a pair is less intimidating than wandering the streets alone.


Anja was propositioned on the way home, but the guy didn't even wait till the third question. He just asked if she would be keen to spend the night at his house. She was shocked by this and now has a story to tell when she returns home.

I have to admit that I kept a watchful eye out for Turkish Cheese and I am sure I met her mother but alas, didn't see the local that was so wonderful.


Chatting to Leno the hockey player today I told her about my experiences and suggested we look down as it would be safer not making eye contact. The downside of course would be we could only report back on the cobbles, the stone steps and the marbled floors as Istanbul was incredibly crowded today. I am worried that if I get to the fifth question this would be about marriage and I hadn't quite intended on that yet but I have to admit that Sophie Al Sultanakhan has a nice ring to it.

So, alas. I seem to still be single as does Pooh Bear. We are snugly tucked up in bed after a long day of a true Turk experience. Day two awaits!

From Pooh Bear and myself, lights out!

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