Put this on our bucket list! I insist..

Ephesus, Göreme and Gallipoli

Put these on your bucket list! I insist…

Well Ephesus and Göreme for sure, Gallipoli only if you have a keen interest in World War I or are Australian.

Göreme would be without a doubt my favourite out of the three. The day before I left for Turkey, my friend Sharlene Versfeld demanded I stop here, and reluctantly I did. And for that I am eternally grateful!

The landscape is fascinating. The entire area has a mystical hobbit feel to it. You walk around the town or shire half expecting to set eyes on Gandalf or Bilbo. The Nevşehir Province is made up of these dainty cone shaped mountains that all look like fairy chimneys.

The reason for my most recent trip to Turkey was for the FIBA Basketball World Championship for Women. The games were being played in the capital Ankara, a gateway into Cappadocia.  Being based in a big city for six days, I was delighted to discover the tournament followed theatre etiquette and had no games on the Monday night.

I took this opportunity to escape. First thing on Monday morning a hasty yellow cab spat me out at the enormous bus terminal or the AŞTİ in Ankara. I cruised the counters looking for Süha Turizm, a bus company that would take me to the small town, Göreme, a five hour bus ride away.

Göreme is a historic region and is a recognised UNESCO World Heritage Site. The first chronicled inhabitants of the area were Christians during the Roman period and they lived in square carved-out caves usually impressively high up in the cone shaped mountains. Inspired by this knowledge, I opted to dwell in a cave for my one night there, it was simply called the Traveller’s Cave Hotel and for 55Euro B&B, was an affordable experience. Bekir, the hotel owner also kindly shuttled you up the steep hill from the bus stop. From the reception to my room I ambled down 91 steps to my room.

This magical town is easy to navigate, with two main roads bisecting each other. After checking in, I deposited my bags and went walk about. Following the route the shuttle had taken me, I strolled down to the main part of town. Turning left into the next main road, I headed out of town towards the hills to Pigeon Valley. After a decent hike and a bit of rock climbing I literally had a bird’s eye view overlooking all of Göreme.

On my way back I stopped for an early dinner at a spot called One Way. I was eager to try the meal Cappadocia was renowned for, a dish simply called pottery kebab. It came in an enclosed clay pot which the waiter broke open with a small hammer. It was served with rice and a simple garden salad. Delicious!

As night settled in, the peaceful experience of the sun setting was interrupted by keen photographer’s flashes going off. But once the sun had set, the fairy chimneys became more mystical bathed in yellow lights. Some from large spot lights illuminating the hills and others from the huddles of abodes cut into the rocks.

Sunrise greeted early risers, most of them taking the opportunity to float above the chimneys in hot air balloons. The sandstone colour scheme had patches of brightly coloured balloons hovering above them. The experience cost 120Euros through Bekir. Other adventures on offer were quad biking, horse riding, cycling and hiking.

At breakfast, the Turkish lady on duty insisted I have a traditional start to my day. It consisted of a waffle-like pancake with a local version of Nutella. The usual Turkish breakfast options were also available of cheeses and breads.

My highlight in Göreme was cave crashing. I spent several hours walking in the opposite direction to where I had been the previous afternoon, following signs for the Rock Churches. After spending ages in the El Nazar Kilisesi keenly looking at the beautiful cave paintings, I roamed the surrounding area discovering more caves with humble paintings that were just left open to the elements. The former tenants had chipped away steps to their front doors, so with a bit of clambering, you could get in. Each cave had a different feel to it, some with crumbling pillars others with real pigeon holes, small little rooms sprouting off the main living area. All of these had their own simple paintings on the walls, nothing as detailed as the churches, but enchanting none the less.

Next stop, Ephesus. This ancient place is remarkable, picturesque and majestically beautiful, an ancient Greek city that started taking shape in the 10century BC, and then ‘modernised’ by the Romans around 130BC. It is near the coast of Ionia on the Asian side of Turkey, a stone throw away from Greece and its capital Athens.

Like Göreme, my trip to Ephesus was brief. The ruins of Ephesus are a hot favourite tourist attraction and contain the largest collection of Roman ruins in the eastern Mediterranean. Researching Ephesus, words such as flourished, attacked, conquered, destroyed, raided and damaged all jump out at you and standing in amongst the ruins it is hard to imagine all the blood that has spilt in this wonderful area.

Listening to the various tour guides directing large groups of people, they explained that only a fraction of the ruins have been excavated and there is still so much more preserved under the surrounding hills. The entire area is hugely attractive in its history but moments that stood out for me would have to be visiting the original public toilets, the massive and impressive amphitheatre that up until recently hosted live performances, big names like Sting, Pavarotti, Elton John and Ray Charles have graced the stage. The old harbour road and the road leading to the library that is rumoured to have housed all the best retail shops.

An outline of a foot carved into the marble promenade outside the brothels indicating if the customer was man enough to spend time with the ladies. If your foot was smaller than that etched out yard stick, unlucky! The library of Celsus standing in all its glory was fabulous to see. Standing in front of its massive facade I stood in awe admiring the architecture, the details just exquisite. The library used to house 12,000 scrolls and now is home to Celsus who is buried in a sarcophagus beneath the library.

If you have time, the House of the Virgin Mary and the Temple of Artemis are well worth a visit. Both are a short drive away from Ephesus. The House of Virgin Mary has a steady flow of pilgrims passing through it. The shrine itself is not extensively large, but can be best described as a modest chapel. Outside the shrine is the Wishing Wall where pilgrims leave behind their personal intentions on paper or fabric and tie it onto this wall. 

Nowadays, The Temple of Artemis has just a few marble pillars standing lonely in a field on the outskirts of Ephesus. With a bit of imagination you can picture what it must have looked like in its heyday. Most of the temple is on display in British Museums, the site was pillaged in the 60s and the temple was transported by rail to England. 

Finally Gallipoli, directly translated means beautiful city. I accidentally spent a day touring around here in winter. The seaside city was the venue to the great Battle of Gallipoli in World War 1 that lasted 8 months.  The battle is regarded as a defining moment in the nation’s history, the struggle forming the bases for the Turkish War of Independence.

Spotted around are various memorials and burial grounds that are immaculately maintained. Walking around, you find yourself looking up to a massive ANZAC memorial and then further along, standing in actual trenches. 100,000 lives were lost on this peninsula. Littered in the strait there is supposedly 216 French, British and Italian vessels that were sunk and now are fabulous to explore, even for inexperienced divers.

If you find yourself in these parts, be sure to make a detour. It is an affordable trip down a variety of historic lanes.

·         Travelling by bus to Göreme, make sure your bus ticket clearly states the destination as they often deposit you in Nevşehir, a rather costly alternative route that is half an hour away.

·         If you book directly through the website for the Traveller’s Cave Hotel you get 10% discount.

·         Göreme isn’t the most friendly place for wheel chair visitors.

·         Pegasus Airlines flies just outside of Ephesus from Istanbul, and booking in advance you can pick up really good deals.

Kamil Kaya from Hotel Sultan’s Inn in Istanbul can organise tours to both Ephesus and Gallipoli

Ankara - the anchor of Turkey

Surfing the Turkish Tourism website, they proudly inform you that Turkey is home of The Blue Mosque, home of the colour Turquoise, home of the historic site Cappadocia, home of Troy, home of the Silk Road, home of the Golden Horn and home of ancient Gods. But there is no flash pitch about the capital, Ankara!

Ankara is clean, hilly and expansive. The word Ankara means anchor, a rather fitting name if ever there was for a capital.

I was based in Ankara for six days for the FIBA Women’s Basketball World Championship; I was there to support the French team. The venue in the capital was the Architectural award winning Ankara Arena which hosts a variety of events; the first event that was held in it after it was built in 2010 was the FIBA World Championship, so no stranger to major basketball events. 16 countries were there to compete for the cup with the games being played both in Istanbul and Ankara. Ankara was host to Brazil, Canada, Czech Republic, France, Japan, Mozambique, Spain, and host team Turkey.

I have been to and participated in big sporting events in South Africa including being at the World Cup Soccer at the iconic Moses Mabhida, but all of those matches pale into significance witnessing my first international basketball game, the entire experience was tingling. The last game on the opening day was a cracker between Olympic Silver Medallists’ France and the home team. Fans in their droves swarmed the stadium.

It took a while to collect my tickets and find the correct entrance. By the time I had presented my ticket to the FIBA usher, I had walked through a metal detector, had my bag searched by police then frisked by another police officer, before the final police check confirming the legitimacy of my ticket. Finally offering it to an usher who warmly welcomed me.

Having purchased my tickets online months prior, I by some stroke of luck had landed myself in the VIP area. The online booking system had an early bird ticket sale, so I paid for one ticket and got the remainder of the tournament basically for free. It also so happened that all the travelling French fans were seated in the VIP area.

The atmosphere in the venue was electric. Turkish flags floated aloft as the bearer’s sang a catchy tune that obviously was the anthem for the Turkish team. An enclosed space with well over 20,000 people all chanting, singing and cheering was passionate. Needless to say France went down but only by two points.

The remainder of the tournament, the Les Bleus sadly lacked the spark they had in London finishing second in their group, spiralling out in the quarters in Istanbul with a defeat against ace team USA. Then they lost to Canada in the class 5 – 8 games, after beating them in the group games. In the final game of France’s tournament they did manage to get some respect back with a win over Serbia and finishing in seventh.

The Les Bleus fans welcomed me into their small clan of 20 or so. Each game I had my face painted as an honorary frog. I was so proud of neighbours Mozambique, how they held their own on the court.

As far as sightseeing goes, Ankara is a massive, vibrant, cultural city but only really offers a handful of tourist attractions. Stumbling upon the Tourist Information Centre at the main train station across the way from the arena, the fabulously helpful tourism officer presented an impressive colour brochure, in English, of all the sights and stops in Ankara. All could be done on a walking tour over two days.

I found the public transport system difficult to figure out and eventually gave up. From the hotel where I was staying, the arena was a 20minute or 30TYL ride away and the yellow cabs were an attraction in itself. I am sure that the drivers were awarded for the most number of fares they could take on a day, not how scenic a route they took you on. Every ride felt like a race between A and B and on arrival your hasty exit was appreciated. It was a cheap and fast way to get around.

My first day out exploring, I got deposited at my landmark of the arena and wandered along the wide main road towards the Opera House, the Ethnography Museum and the State Art and Sculpture Museum. The Opera House was all closed up and seemed to be out of season. Across the road was a glee-filled Fun Fair snuggled up right against the main road threatening to toss out unsuspecting riders from the brightly coloured rides. Further up the road I came across the grand State Art and Sculpture Museum with the Ethnography Museum alongside. In the garden proudly sat a number of statues of famous Turk artists and sculptors as well as what looked like fragments of Roman ruins that were being slowly restored, were littered around the garden and had become a playground for the local feral cats.

With time on my side I opted to go off the beaten track, I turned off the main road and made my way deep into Ulus, the historic centre containing a number of museums, early republican buildings and the ancient Ankara Castle. Ulus is millennia old and I enjoyed getting lost taking small cobbled lanes, discovering roads and roads of shops spilling out onto the road. The gradients of the roads were quite a hike but the locals had no difficulty trekking up, usually lugging a hefty load.

On the only blue skied day I had, I ventured to the Antikabir. Translated to English it means a memorial tomb and is the mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the leader of the Turkish War of Independence and the founder and first President of the Republic of Turkey. The site where the Antikabir was built is the most central in Ankara and can be seen from almost all areas in the city.

The ceremonial courtyard was alive with countless of wiggly worms with hundreds of pre-schoolers out on a day-excursion learning about the history of their country. With each group they had an assigned guide donning a dark tailored suit hugging their ripped frames, they more resembled bodyguards but each and every one of those big burly blokes appeared to be gentle giants. As I was about to depart, I got to see the pomp and ceremony of the Changing of the Guards.

A short yellow cab drive away, I visited the Kocatepe Mosque. It gets a mention in all research you do when you Google Ankara. I spent some quiet time walking around the exterior as the mosque was closed to visitors. It took close on 20 years to build and is the largest mosque in the capital. From there I jumped in another zippy cab and landed up at the Ankara Castle.

The outer citadel follows the ledges of the hill but inside the castle walls you find the real old Ankara with a number of locals quietly getting on with daily chores. Beyond the tourist track, the houses were all old, crumbling, unloved and dilapidated.  The views from up on top of the castle walls are exquisite overlooking all of Ankara. I parted with 12TYL for a freshly squeezed Pomegranate juice, the most expensive food and drink I had spent but the name of the café was the only reason I stopped. It was one word, And.

Would I recommend a visit, about as enthusiastically as I would encourage someone spending their hard earned holiday going to Johannesburg, but for a two day visit as you head to Cappadocia – perfect! 

Istanbul, kiwi tea, frescoes and earthcakes

I looked Medusa in the eye and miraculously didn’t turn to stone!

When I think of Istanbul, I think of a few things. My first thought would be sipping kiwi tea at my favourite restaurant overlooking the Blue Mosque. The second is the icons and frescoes. And the third is the word Earthcakes.

Over 14 million people live in Istanbul. It is huge! But don’t let the size of the city scare you, it is vibrant, fabulous and easy to navigate and get around!

Istanbul is unique in that it is the only natural occurring transcontinental city; it traverses over Europe and Asia. As the hub of Turkish tourism, most travellers move through this bustling metropolis.  Istanbul is a must see before venturing off to the coast or further inland.

There are loads of inns, hotels, B&B’s and hostels to rest your wary head but I tend to always stay at the quaint Hotel Sultan’s Inn, a stone throw away from The Blue Mosque in the Old City which is in Europe. Being a solo traveller by choice, I have met the most wonderful people staying at this hotel. 

The Old City is the focus for most of the A-list sights and usually it is the first stop on the sight-seeing itinerary. Take your time when visiting The Blue Mosque, the intricate detail to the building is breath-taking. From the minarets on the perimeter of the Blue Mosque; to the Mihrab, a classical niche indicating the direction of the kaaba in Mecca; the domes and the prayer hall with the magnificent low hanging lightening illuminating the interior.

The Aya Sofya or the Hagia Sophia on the opposite side to The Blue Mosque on the Sultanahmet Square has a fascinating history and nowadays serves as a museum. At every turn the icons and frescoes mosaicked and painted on walls and ceiling are worth every cent you pay to get in. It is a Roman masterpiece built in the sixth century as a church but then became a mosque when the Ottoman Empire conquered the city in the 15^th century but the glistening icons remain mostly intact to this day.

On the other side of the Aya Sofya is the Basilica Cistern, a cathedral-sized underground cistern also dating back to the sixth century. Once forgotten, the cistern was accidently rediscovered by a Frenchman who was researching the Byzantine antiques in the 16^th century.  Inside the temperature is quite chilly, colourful koi swim tranquilly in the water and you are invited to feed them. You wind along wooden boardwalks that weave in-between forest of Roman marble pillars with lights shining up from their bases. The walkway winds to a cul-de-sac where two impressive statues of Medusa lie in wait. According to the myth, if you look into the eyes of Medusa, you will turn to stone.

In the same area, another must-stop is the Topkapi Palace. The lavish Ottoman lifestyle that covers over four centuries is displayed here and well worth the entrance fee. The view overlooking the Bosphorus from the grounds is also impressive. For an afternoon stroll, the Gülhane Park which used to be the hunting grounds of the Topkapi Palace is fantastic to amble through. The immaculate botanical garden also takes you down towards the Bosphorus and the Galata Bridge that spans the Golden Horn.

Taking time out from sightseeing, I love to people watch and there are a number of places you can spend ages watching people while enjoying some street food. The Hippodrome alongside The Blue Mosque has plenty of park benches where you can sit and enjoy a freshly baked Simit, Istanbul’s delicious answer to the American bagel or some recently roasted Chestnuts. Around the Galata Bridge and The New Valide Mosque you can pick up a Doner Kebab for 5TYL then after that enjoy shopping in the Spice Bazaar.

Istanbul is renowned for its shopping districts and markets. If you are in ‘the market’ to purchase a carpet, spices, clothes or a leather jacket then look no further. The Grand Bazaar attracts close on 400 thousand people annually and is great to explore. Just be aware that quite a few pick-pockets roam in these parts as well. The shopping district of Taksim, a short taxi, tram or bus ride away is also great to pick up deals.

Evenings for me are usually spent relishing a sweet cup of kiwi tea at the splendid Doy Doy that overlooks The Blue Mosque or watching my favourite basketball team participate in the FIBA EuroLeague, Tango Bourges from France playing the local Turkish teams, Fenerbache and Galasaray.  Between games, the nightlife in the Old City is grand.

The Doy Doy features on the wiki travel suggested places to eat and recommended by Hotel Sultans Inn. Their service and food fills you up, and the charm and location certainly makes it spectacular. They offer a number of different style of kebabs and in the last two years have also expanded their vegetarian menu extensively. My favourite off their menu is the kiwi tea, in all of my travels through Istanbul a highlight for me is stopping at the family owned spot and sipping my green juice as night descends on The Blue Mosque.

A wonderful cultural event is appreciating the Whirling Dervishes or Mevlevi Order, a mesmerising spiritual dance that is centuries old. The male dancers descend into a trance as they gently whirl around to traditional music performed quietly in the background. If you are lucky you may stumble upon a few free Whirling Dervish shows in a couple of the open air restaurants or Hookah Lounges. The night air in Sultanahmet becomes hugely aromatic as the stars come out; patrons participate in an unhurried and sociable Turkish tradition of a Shisha, the smoking of a waterpipe or Hookah.

An absolute must is a cruise along the Bosphorus. Overhearing two gorgeous Aussie chefs when I was in Gallipoli, they keenly stated that there are three places in the world that if you find yourself, you have to go on the water. The first was the mighty Hudson River in New York City, the second suggested by these two Aussie blokes - a romantic cruise around Venice. The third was on the Bosphorus. There are loads of cruise options around the Galata Bridge area; a cheaper option - you can even catch a ferry across the way if you so desire. 

If you have time, then visit the Chora Church, the chapel outside the city walls. It is quite a lengthy walk from Sultanahmet but you get to pass the Valens Aqueduct, the Roman aqueduct that still stands and pass more bridal dress shops than at a Bridal Fair. The church was destroyed during the Latin invasion but lovingly restored over the next few centuries. Following a similar tale as the Aya Sofya, the church was converted into a mosque then later into a museum. The picturesque frescoes date back to the 14th century.

A walking tour that is either free or consider a guided tour, but a beautiful exploration around the Old City walls is worth putting a couple of hours aside for. I went on a City Walls tour and the young guide had a colourful explanation about most things. He was extremely passionate about Turkish tiles. He made reference a few times to the recent disaster in 1999 that flattened buildings, leaving half a million homeless and killed close on 50,000 people, dear Mohammed kept referring to the natural disaster as an earthcake. The endearing term stuck and tickled me pink.

After you have walked the length and breadth of the Old City and the walls, why not treat yourself to an age old ritual of a Hamam or a Turkish Bath? I visited the Çağaloğlu Hamamı Hamamı, a three century old Hamam. I wasn’t brave enough for the full treatment by a Turkish lady but slowly spent time relaxing in all of the steam rooms.

For South African’s Istanbul is a completely affordable destination and also a cheap gateway into Europe. There is something magical about the city that keeps a number of travellers returning, including myself. Will I return, most definitely!

·         For people visiting places of worship, be respectful in these magnificent sacred spaces. Ladies please remember to pack a scarf that can double up as a head scarf. Keep quiet and be aware of prayer times.

·         The Topkapi Palace, Aya Sofya and Bascilica Cistern have an entrance fee. I would suggest doing this first thing in the morning when they open up as the queues during the ‘in-season’ can be quite long.

·         Public transport is completely affordable. Taxis are inexpensive and hailing a cab is easy. Getting across the country also has a number of options, including the low flight airline Pegasus. Take into account that most of their flights leave from the Asian side, so factor in the cost of getting to the airport.

·         Most hotels offer airport transfers. For the extra 25 Euros (Atatürk) /50 Euros (Sabiha Gokcen) one way ride per trip, it is well worth it. Most airport transfers are chauffeur driven mini-buses direct to your hotel’s doorstep.

Chatting to sailor Chris Frost

Royal Natal Yacht Club

Chris Frost

Umhlanga’s Chris Frost will be taking to the high seas to compete in the upcoming Colorpress Vasco da Gama hosted by the Royal Natal Yacht Club that begins in Maputo this Thursday (2 May).

Frost will be competing in his ninth Vasco, the toughest ocean race in Southern Africa. “It has been a while since I last competed in a Vasco, the last time was in 2008 for the RNYC 150^th anniversary race.”

Previously in 2006, Frost and his crew set a new course record and was the first yacht across the line. As the fleet of 14 yachts line up to tackle the 2013 race, Frost’s remarkable record still stands, “We had superb conditions ion 2006 in a 25 knot north easterly until Tugela where we were hit by a 50 knot westerly front.  Before then we had an eta Durban of below 22 hours!  We shredded our main in the westerly, essentially finishing with a flat tyre. That we set a good record that has stood seven years in those conditions was extraordinary.”

“I love sailing offshore, it is far more exhilarating than dam or bay racing, and Durban is one of the best places to sail, doesn’t get better. Warm water, great swell and good wind, year round!” Frost boasts about his hometown turf.

The experienced sailor has had a busy sailing month, having just won the double in the Inhaca Island to Richard’s Bay Race, being the first yacht across the line and winning on handicap. “It was a good warm up for us for the Vasco. Southern Storm performed well in the light conditions and I am looking forward to feeling her surf down the swells this weekend.”

Southern Storm will have the same crew as the Inhaca Race, “The crew were simply fantastic, a mix of experienced yachtsman like Long John Lupton – Smith and Gerrie Boshoff who have sailed with me for years and talented youth sailors such as Gareth Elias and Tamzin Gennissen. Gareth and Tamzin are flying in from Turkey to compete.”

Frost took a year off from competitive sailing in 2012, “I took a year off competitive sailing in 2012 because the previous year, 2011 I did my international programme and felt like a break, with more emphasis on cruising to avoid burn out.”

In 2011 Frost took his yacht Prodigy to victory in the Cape to Rio Race, “2011 was a great year, we broke the course record for the Heineken Cape to Rio race, and I still hold that title, along with being the defending champion for this transatlantic race. A few months later, I competed in the New York Yacht Clubs’ Transatlantic Race to Lands’ End in the United Kingdom. We also entered the Fastnet Race that year.”

The highly decorated sailor, who has been sailing for around forty years, still has a number of events that he would like to compete in, “There are a few international races that I want to tick off, the Fastnet, Rolex Middle Sea Race; Newport Bermuda Race and the Rolex Sydney to Hobart are absolute musts.”  

Pausing, he states, “I also want to continue cruising the world’s best and most exotic sailing areas.” Each year the Frost family spend about four weeks cruising on a 60ft Catamaran named Salty Dog. “We have been lucky enough to have cruised Bazaruto, Pemba, Zanzibar, Madagascar, Mauritius, Seychelles, Balearic Islands, Malta, Greece and Turkey over the past six years.”

Asked what he most enjoys about sailing, he says, “Predominantly the competition! When we are surfing at 25 plus knots, at the front of the fleet on Prodigy IV, a Simonis Voogd Design 54, life is absolutely invigorating.” he states beaming.

The long range weather is looking good for the fleet as they all navigate their way back from Maputo, finishing offshore of Durban.

“It promises to be a cracker of a race, this year we have a quality fleet with guys from around the county crewing, so it is going to be interesting. Seeing the different strategies play out as we charge down the coastline back home.” Frost concludes.

ENDS

Victoria's secret is out

Offshore Sailing Academy / Royal Natal Yacht Club Colorpress Vasco da Gama

Victoria Marshall

 

Keeping the Offshore Sailing Academy lads firmly in check, Victoria Marshall makes certain the coaches, Greg Collins; Werner de Kock and Luke Wagner are kept in the correct lines

This English Rose will easily blow you away, not only can she speak four languages, but she plays the piano, flute and enjoys singing. But her talents don’t end there, Westville resident Victoria Marshall is a passionately competitive sailor in Durban.

She was introduced to the superb sport of sailing at a young age, “When I was nine my older sister and I had our very own oppies. We were taught by Trevor Gibb, the stalwart in so many young people’s sailing careers here in Durban.”

Marshall was born in Bristol, England but moved to Durban when she was five and has called Durban home since then. “I went to university in Durban for three years at UKZN where I studied languages, translation and drama. I speak French, Italian and can navigate my way through Spanish and of course I speak English.”

“Last year I worked at the Alliance Française for a couple of months before taking up a job offer to work on a 60ft catamaran in the Mediterranean for 6 months which was an amazing experience! In October I went to university in Italy to do a short language and culture course after which I did a bit of travelling around Europe before returning home to South Africa.”

Victoria Marshall is harnessing a career in her passion, sailing.

Since returning back to Durban, she gravitated towards a career in her main passion, “I have now been working for Offshore Sailing Academy for a few months and I’m really enjoying it. It is heartening to see how sailing gives our students a new lease on life as many come here knowing very little about it and discover a whole new exciting world that they never knew about.”

Beaming, she continues, “I enjoy the fact that each time you get out on the water, sailing is an adventure. I enjoy the sense of freedom it brings and challenges of being in complete control of a boat.”

Marshall is currently preparing to sail in her first ever Colorpress Vasco da Gama that is being hosted by the Royal Natal Yacht Club, “Preparations are going very well! Our entry is in, we have a friend coming over from the UK and one from Jo’burg to join us and we’re all starting to get quite excited.”

Racing in the bay on Majimoto

The Vasco is one of the toughest ocean races in the country and Marshall together with her father, Jon and sister, Charlotte and the visiting crew will be one of 14 yachts competing in this international blue water event that starts in Maputo on Thursday 2 May and finishes in Durban.

“I have many things on my bucket list, I will be ticking off the Vasco soon, my next project is the Lipton Cup Challenge in July, this is the most prestigious regatta in South Africa. I have been asked to sail with the Sail Africa team so I’m over the moon!  Next year I’d also like to take part in the Cape to Rio Race.”

Having sailed to exotic destinations such as Mozambique, Greece, Spain, Malta, Sicily, Turkey this up and coming young lady doesn’t have a favourite boat and is more than capable on any sailing vessel.

Talking about the sport being male dominated, “At times it can be frustrating as girls tend to get overlooked in this sport but if anything it pushes me to improve as I want to be taken seriously as a female sailor.”

Durban’s Victoria Marshall takes some time out of her busy nautical career, enjoying a quiet moment on the moorings at the Durban Marina.

Sturdy words as her list of achievements continues to grow and impress, having won the Inhaca to Richards Bay Race with her family in 2011; winning a few hobie regattas in Durban; placing second in an Intervasity match racing event and being appointed the Commodore of the UKZN Yacht Club for two years.

Concluding she reveals, “I really admire the sailors that I’ve grown up with and have achieved great results. It encourages me as there is nothing stopping me from achieving the same.”

If you would like to learn how to sail go to www.yachtman.co.za or contact Offshore Sailing Academy on 031 307 7944.

Is this an express train?

Snug as in a 'warm' Helsinki clocking in at -4degrees. Snow is beautiful! The white landscapes are utterly breathtaking!

It has been about a week since I clocked in with you all. My time in London flew by. I got to spend tons of time with Derek and Ange. I spent most of a day with Nat and Ange (who bunked work). I also even spent the better part of a day with Trayci Tompkins as we cruised around Covent Gardens, the last time I was in Covent Gardens was in 97- I have to admit, it hasn't changed much.

London was fun, a chilled interval between Turkey, France and the main attraction - Finland! When I arrived on the Eurostar, the snow was tumbling down. Rickmansworth was under a few inches of snow and remained this way for the next day and a bit with light sleet keeping the temperature chilly. The last two days warmed up hugely, almost a heat wave at 9degrees with the sun making an appearance.

Time with Derek and Ange was fantastic. I love visiting them. Derek and I get to play with our cameras and he teaches me so much! Ange is great company. Their house is a home, warm and comfortable.

Ange and I went to visit Nat on Thursday. Nat had a bad day on Wednesday, so took a TOIL day, Ange did in a way as well as she is not enjoying work! We had a long leisurely lunch at Nat's gorgeous new flat in Fulham Broadway on the green line. Her directions were spot on, with huge emphasis on the second iron gate, her address is The Gatehouse 20 Dawes Road and next door is Malcolm Court, 20 Dawes Road, so loads of confusion with deliveries etc. Amusing to Nat, not so for her neighbour.

After lunch we strolled through the Burton Cemetery, ancient and rather unattended which just makes it that much more charming. Nat claimed that this spot featured in Sherlock Holmes, the movie with Johnny Depp. Also is home to some famous people.

We then proceeded to hunt for bus #74 but seemed to over shoot the route, forced to catch another bus and ended up going past a Lambogiene car shop which Nat loved (we think she did this deliberately to see the expensive machines) and eventually caught up with the correct bus which took us to Baker Street. We meet Derek here for a drink at the pub right outside the tube station. Nat entertained us no end, her stories resulting in loud laughter - in true Nat style, her tales were just too much. Kids getting locked up in the slammer for pinching a scooter, or her asking a Broadway star if he had good seats in the show she had just seen. Or a young un getting an award at the end of year ceremony and asking if the prize she gets, if she can eat it!

After that we went for dinner at Nandos. The whole evening was truly memorable!

I clocked in with John Adler, he sounded well. I tried to get in touch with Helen Taylor, Catherine Dodd and Leanne but alas, time just ran out!

I left London Gatwick yesterday early evening. The security check was a bit OTT, checking each persons liquid that they had packed in their hand luggage. I declared my deodorant and perfume but forgot about the arnica and bactopan creams and they didn't pick it up.

I arrived close on midnight after a very pleasant flight on Norwegian Airlines. I caught the airport taxi to Hellsten Senate Apartments. It must have been just after midnight when I got there. I dumped my bags and just had to go walk about. The deep snow was just too inviting. I wandered around till close on 1:30 this morning and then retired to my warm comfy bed. I cruised around familiar buildings that had there winter look, a totally different feel.

The alarm was set for 08:00 this morning and in typical holiday fashion, I was up at 07:39.  I was meeting Eva at nine at the train station so left my bags neatly packed and ready for check out and troddled off to see my Finnish friend.

I caught the #4 tram and sat confidentally gazing out the window for the familiar sight of the train station, the one that appears on my screensaver but when we started heading out of town, I grew nervous that I had missed my stop. Asking the driver, he nodded and pointed at an oncoming tram. Pooh and I leaped off the #4 and ran to the station to attempt to catch the #3T for take two.

The #3T spat me out directly outside the train station. I wandered inside being a few minutes late and easily found Eva. We had a light breakfast, I caught up on all her news. She was full of stories. Was good to see her!

She left promptly to catch the #615 to the airport. She said it was winter ski holidays for the south so, as she is single she had no chance to come with on my adventure. All her colleagues who have families are booked off. The holidays work in an interesting fashion, first the south have a week off, the central Finland and then the north.

After Eva departed, I meandered around, trying to remember the different places I had been to and wanted to get familiar shots so I could compare the summer and winter photos!

I then had to head back to Hellsten to check out and store my bags. The elevator was ancient and had a letter explaining that we must be gentle on her. Strongly urging us not to slam the door. This was fun as the coded. key didn't want to let me in to the luggage room. After phoning the reception three times, I eventually hunted down the maid to assist me. She did this somewhat begrudgingly and mumbling about foreigners.

Having successfully securing my bags, I headed out on more or less the same route I had strolled last night, extending my visit to the church where I watched a young couple pose for photos, her in a summer dress and must have been freezing in the sub zero conditions. The photographer expertly telling them where to look and how to smile. I am sure a few of his previous wedding shots must have a similar feel.

On my round-about voyage to breakfast, I passed a building that had a government feel to it, one I have stopped at before. Most of the garden that welcomed guests had a snowmen congregation. A few handfuls all stood keeping a watchful eye on the traffic, including a cute ice version of Winnie the Pooh

After that I stopped at a buffet bar and nibbled on a croissant remembering France. The time was nearing two and I still wanted to go to the Ice meets Art exhibition in the Helsinki Zoo. Eva had sent me details of this. I caught the #16 train that takes you directly to the Zoo and then after discovering a Beared Eagle, a Snow Leopard, a tiger, a pacing Leopard who had grooved the exact footprints in the snow, he marched up and down, turning in the same circle and missioning on with deliberate strides.

in the main zoo area, near the playground and restaurant, the Ice meets Art exhibition was. It was growing dark, so the sculptures were starting to be illuminated by LED lights. Artists from around the world had come to compete. Their carvings were magnificent! Intricate, defined, detailed and just mind blowing what could be done with a block of ice and some imagination.

Eventually, as the night drew closer with the time nearing 6pm, I caught the bus back to Helsinki central. I went for my last stroll around this fantastic city. Trying to jam as many memories that could fit into my travel bank. I then went to grab something from the local shop, and then collecting my bags, I quickly ate my supper in the Hellsten reception area.

My final tram trip on the #4 took me back to the station. Now aware of where to jump off, I got off without any detours. I waited for the train, for some time in the ticket hall and then braved the subzero temps on the #8 platform.

Currently, I sit on what is rumoured to be the express train, in half an hour we have crawled along a few hundred metres and are on our third pause. None of the locals seem worried, so I am just sitting back and relaxing!

At the first official stop, the entire train filled up with everyone carrying bags that obviously contain skis, or else they have very long narrow bags in these parts!

I had planned my Kemi visit around an excursion on the big Ice Breaker, a swim in the north sea and a trip to the snow castle, snow church and of course the snow bar. But I fear that the Ice Breaker is not operating this weekend, so no excursion or swim in the north sea! I am not sure what else there is to do in Kemi, in time I will know!

Pooh alerted me to the fact that Finnish families travel with their animals, we are on the train with a bulldog, a black lab, a spaniel cross setter and a cat.