Oh Deer!

Downtown Kuhmo, this is where I will call home for the next day and a bit. We have left the tranquil surrounds of Kati and Ari's farm.

I landed in Kajaani two nights ago, the three hour train ride shot us through beautiful frosted landscapes. As the sun set, on our approach to Kajaani, as I got my bag down from the overhead storage, the train came to an abrupt holt. Over the pa system a man announced what was happening, the locals all grew quiet and shook their heads. I thought that the train had broken down. After a few minutes of standing around and moving my bag out of the way of the ticket conductor who marched purposefully up and down the carriage, I decided we weren't going anywhere so I sat down again. The lady across the way from me was shaking her head, and then phoned someone to let them know that we were delayed.

A few rows in front of me, eight German teenagers who had been joyfully rowdy and boisterous must have been questioning the delay. A man in front of them raised himself out of his seat, turned around and explained that the train had hit a deer and the driver had to get out to inspect the damage and see if the deer was alive.

Another announcement boomed through the pa system and the Germans enquired from the nice man what had been said and he said that the train driver had gotten back on the train and we would be continuing shortly. No mention of the deer's well being was ever raised and the mood on the train became very glum.

Ten minutes later we arrived in Kajaani and Kati was standing waiting on the platform. The farm was two hours away and we set off in their trusty Nissan. The drive had been interesting with Kati negotiating loads of speeding Russian vehicles, mostly trucks on the icy roads. She complained that she was sticking to the speed limit and they were going dangerously fast. We got to the farm under total darkness, a candle greeted us on the pathway up to the main house. The familiar buildings all looked gorgeous covered in snow.

Dumping my bags, we sat down for a healthy salad. We chatted for a bit and then we all retired for an early night. I was grateful as the two previous nights I hadn't really got much sleep.

The next morning we woke relatively early. Breakfast was munched gazing out at the winter wonderland that was framed by the large kitchen windows. The wind dusted the most recent snowfall off the branches. After breakfast Kati and I took Reentu the dog for a short walk to the lake and then turned back. Reentu loved the snow, rubbing himself up against the icy wall, biting mouthfuls of it as he strolled along.

Back at the house Kati made lunch, reindeer broth with Carelian pies. While it sat stewing on the stove, she spoke to Anni and Jussi making arrangements to visit them. After lunch we headed on the familiar roads to the White Carelian Villages. I was amazed at how much I remembered, where we stopped at the park, the toilet break, the houses-it was fun being back and seeing the landscape donning its winter look.

50kms later we arrived at Jussi's house. He remembered me and asked how Africa was, to which I answered warm. We spent two hours with him where he shared stories of his youth, his time as a Finnish guard at a Russian concentration camp where he played musical instruments with the prisoners, his jack of all trades existence where he carved the details of the church in the village and built other buildings in the area. He sat smoking his pipe or as he called it his aroma therapy. We enjoyed a coffee with him and as we were nearing the end of our time with him, he played four songs for us on his accordion. One was called staring at the dying embers of the fire. They all had a haunting, sad melody and they felt very Russian.

On leaving he raised the question of when was he going to see me, the African again to which I found myself responding in a summer when it was warmer!

As we stepped out the house, a lady arrived, she was Kati's editor of Kati's next book. She was living with Jussi for a few days a week where she was looking after him but also writing his autobiography. Kati told her we were going snow walking and she offered me her cross country skis saying that they were a lot easier than the shoes. I took a few pics of Jussi's 'village' and off we disappeared down the road to Domnan Pirtti and Anni. She had coffee waiting for us, along with home made biscuits. She joked that she gave them to a couple that had visited a few days ago cause they loved the recipe and I have to admit they tasted damn fine! Anni looked gorgeous, spunky as ever with a glow and a mischievous twinkle in her eyes.

Kati told me about the accident Anni had had recently, she had been preparing the sauna and had, in her words, been lazy using a plastic bucket to take the boiling water out. The handle broke and the scorching hot water had cascaded down into her boot and soaked her woollen sock. This started the long painful recovery. She said that she rushed to the lake and submerged her injury, this was her saving grace. She spent 3weeks in hospital where they did a skin graft from her thigh and fixed the foot. This all went well however the section of her thigh got infected and she is still slowly recovering. She is hoping that by the time she goes on holiday to Poland her thigh will be better. The one thing she is most disappointed about is the fact that with the open wound she has not been able to enjoy the Scandinavian tradition of the sauna. Ari says that the care in the hospital wasn't the best, hence the infection after the operation and the extended recovery.

We chatted for a bit, Anni told us about her plans to take her niece who is 15 to somewhere interesting. She thought of backpacking in India but was hesitant because she wasn't sure her niece would enjoy that!

Our conversation danced around the topic of travelling, Anni is a kindred travel spirit, she dreams of discovering new cultures, places and food-bringing her knowledge back to Domnan house. I suggested she should come sailing and it was evident she fell in love with the idea! Now to speak to Rob and then negotiate dates and how long she wants to be on the boat!

After our coffee Kati and I went for a new adventure, Snow Walking. We grabbed the skis and snow shoes and made our way down to the lake in front of Domnan, I figured out how to put the skis on and then without any discussions or lessons, we were off. At the edge of the lake there was a sharp dip down to the flat surface, this was my first bit of adrenaline rush as I skidded down the bank at a pace managing to stay up right and this was the moment that I fell in love with the sport of skiing. I must have had a smile from ear to ear evident on my face and perhaps seen from outer space. We cruised around the lake then went into the forested area until we came full circle back to the car. My time sliding around had come to an end. we left the skis at Domnan house and then walked to the old church where Jussi had been a part of the building team.

All to soon we were in the car and leaving one of my slice's of heaven heading back to the farm. Kati was working today and tomorrow so it was decided that we would stay in Downtown Kuhmo for the remainder of the trip.

When we arrived back at the farm, I went and started the process of packing my bags, now really plotting about what to keep at the top as it would be the final leg of this adventure.

Dinner was fire baked potatoes with a local sausage. I ate well and then went to my haven for a bit, reading Wallander. After 7pm I surfaced again as their was talk of sauna in the evening.

Ari got the sauna ready and at 7:30 Kati and I went and sat in the traditional Finnish sauna, the temperature at first was 50 degrees but when I left, it was 60 degrees. A stark contrast to the -10 outside

When I came back in, I got changed into my pjs and then rehydrated with a Sandels beer. A good brew! Soon after Kati decided to play the accordion as well, playing three songs. We chatted a bit and then I decided to retire.

This morning we had an early start. We had to be out the house by 7:30 as it was an hour drive and Kati could not be late. We packed the car, the dogs got bundled in and we were off. The roads were familiar, I remembered were Eva and I had stopped for a break, taken a photo and where I had chuckled at the hunting signs for beers.

We arrived in Kuhmo punctually for Kati. Ari and I even had time to have a coffee at the dentist office. We left just as the first patient arrived. We went and unpacked the car and left the dogs at the flat. Then we went exploring Kuhmo, revisiting the Library, strolled to the rapids and then went to the cultural centre where a photographic exhibition was on by Juha Taskinen called Viena Aihkii. After having a fabulous young lady show us around and explain the photos we went to the wilderness centre Petola and learnt about bears, wolves, wolverines, golden eagles, lynxes and wild reindeer.

Now knowing the habits of these animals and discovering the damage that they have caused, 24 bee hives have been attacked by Brown Bears in the last financial year! We went down the road to the Hotelii Ravintola Kalevala for a coffee. The spot overlooked the lake as snow mobiles buzzed past as did cross country skiers. The coffee was delicious, best I have had since Derek's morning shots. I now am settled back in the flat. Next mission is to find out the bus timetable to Kajaani as I will be public transporting it from here as Kati and Ari have a mental health meeting at noon. Kajaani is 101km away. The process of this tumbling weed getting blown homewards has started.

The idea of a beer in Copehagen is within reach.

031 we are almost home!

Is this an express train?

Snug as in a 'warm' Helsinki clocking in at -4degrees. Snow is beautiful! The white landscapes are utterly breathtaking!

It has been about a week since I clocked in with you all. My time in London flew by. I got to spend tons of time with Derek and Ange. I spent most of a day with Nat and Ange (who bunked work). I also even spent the better part of a day with Trayci Tompkins as we cruised around Covent Gardens, the last time I was in Covent Gardens was in 97- I have to admit, it hasn't changed much.

London was fun, a chilled interval between Turkey, France and the main attraction - Finland! When I arrived on the Eurostar, the snow was tumbling down. Rickmansworth was under a few inches of snow and remained this way for the next day and a bit with light sleet keeping the temperature chilly. The last two days warmed up hugely, almost a heat wave at 9degrees with the sun making an appearance.

Time with Derek and Ange was fantastic. I love visiting them. Derek and I get to play with our cameras and he teaches me so much! Ange is great company. Their house is a home, warm and comfortable.

Ange and I went to visit Nat on Thursday. Nat had a bad day on Wednesday, so took a TOIL day, Ange did in a way as well as she is not enjoying work! We had a long leisurely lunch at Nat's gorgeous new flat in Fulham Broadway on the green line. Her directions were spot on, with huge emphasis on the second iron gate, her address is The Gatehouse 20 Dawes Road and next door is Malcolm Court, 20 Dawes Road, so loads of confusion with deliveries etc. Amusing to Nat, not so for her neighbour.

After lunch we strolled through the Burton Cemetery, ancient and rather unattended which just makes it that much more charming. Nat claimed that this spot featured in Sherlock Holmes, the movie with Johnny Depp. Also is home to some famous people.

We then proceeded to hunt for bus #74 but seemed to over shoot the route, forced to catch another bus and ended up going past a Lambogiene car shop which Nat loved (we think she did this deliberately to see the expensive machines) and eventually caught up with the correct bus which took us to Baker Street. We meet Derek here for a drink at the pub right outside the tube station. Nat entertained us no end, her stories resulting in loud laughter - in true Nat style, her tales were just too much. Kids getting locked up in the slammer for pinching a scooter, or her asking a Broadway star if he had good seats in the show she had just seen. Or a young un getting an award at the end of year ceremony and asking if the prize she gets, if she can eat it!

After that we went for dinner at Nandos. The whole evening was truly memorable!

I clocked in with John Adler, he sounded well. I tried to get in touch with Helen Taylor, Catherine Dodd and Leanne but alas, time just ran out!

I left London Gatwick yesterday early evening. The security check was a bit OTT, checking each persons liquid that they had packed in their hand luggage. I declared my deodorant and perfume but forgot about the arnica and bactopan creams and they didn't pick it up.

I arrived close on midnight after a very pleasant flight on Norwegian Airlines. I caught the airport taxi to Hellsten Senate Apartments. It must have been just after midnight when I got there. I dumped my bags and just had to go walk about. The deep snow was just too inviting. I wandered around till close on 1:30 this morning and then retired to my warm comfy bed. I cruised around familiar buildings that had there winter look, a totally different feel.

The alarm was set for 08:00 this morning and in typical holiday fashion, I was up at 07:39.  I was meeting Eva at nine at the train station so left my bags neatly packed and ready for check out and troddled off to see my Finnish friend.

I caught the #4 tram and sat confidentally gazing out the window for the familiar sight of the train station, the one that appears on my screensaver but when we started heading out of town, I grew nervous that I had missed my stop. Asking the driver, he nodded and pointed at an oncoming tram. Pooh and I leaped off the #4 and ran to the station to attempt to catch the #3T for take two.

The #3T spat me out directly outside the train station. I wandered inside being a few minutes late and easily found Eva. We had a light breakfast, I caught up on all her news. She was full of stories. Was good to see her!

She left promptly to catch the #615 to the airport. She said it was winter ski holidays for the south so, as she is single she had no chance to come with on my adventure. All her colleagues who have families are booked off. The holidays work in an interesting fashion, first the south have a week off, the central Finland and then the north.

After Eva departed, I meandered around, trying to remember the different places I had been to and wanted to get familiar shots so I could compare the summer and winter photos!

I then had to head back to Hellsten to check out and store my bags. The elevator was ancient and had a letter explaining that we must be gentle on her. Strongly urging us not to slam the door. This was fun as the coded. key didn't want to let me in to the luggage room. After phoning the reception three times, I eventually hunted down the maid to assist me. She did this somewhat begrudgingly and mumbling about foreigners.

Having successfully securing my bags, I headed out on more or less the same route I had strolled last night, extending my visit to the church where I watched a young couple pose for photos, her in a summer dress and must have been freezing in the sub zero conditions. The photographer expertly telling them where to look and how to smile. I am sure a few of his previous wedding shots must have a similar feel.

On my round-about voyage to breakfast, I passed a building that had a government feel to it, one I have stopped at before. Most of the garden that welcomed guests had a snowmen congregation. A few handfuls all stood keeping a watchful eye on the traffic, including a cute ice version of Winnie the Pooh

After that I stopped at a buffet bar and nibbled on a croissant remembering France. The time was nearing two and I still wanted to go to the Ice meets Art exhibition in the Helsinki Zoo. Eva had sent me details of this. I caught the #16 train that takes you directly to the Zoo and then after discovering a Beared Eagle, a Snow Leopard, a tiger, a pacing Leopard who had grooved the exact footprints in the snow, he marched up and down, turning in the same circle and missioning on with deliberate strides.

in the main zoo area, near the playground and restaurant, the Ice meets Art exhibition was. It was growing dark, so the sculptures were starting to be illuminated by LED lights. Artists from around the world had come to compete. Their carvings were magnificent! Intricate, defined, detailed and just mind blowing what could be done with a block of ice and some imagination.

Eventually, as the night drew closer with the time nearing 6pm, I caught the bus back to Helsinki central. I went for my last stroll around this fantastic city. Trying to jam as many memories that could fit into my travel bank. I then went to grab something from the local shop, and then collecting my bags, I quickly ate my supper in the Hellsten reception area.

My final tram trip on the #4 took me back to the station. Now aware of where to jump off, I got off without any detours. I waited for the train, for some time in the ticket hall and then braved the subzero temps on the #8 platform.

Currently, I sit on what is rumoured to be the express train, in half an hour we have crawled along a few hundred metres and are on our third pause. None of the locals seem worried, so I am just sitting back and relaxing!

At the first official stop, the entire train filled up with everyone carrying bags that obviously contain skis, or else they have very long narrow bags in these parts!

I had planned my Kemi visit around an excursion on the big Ice Breaker, a swim in the north sea and a trip to the snow castle, snow church and of course the snow bar. But I fear that the Ice Breaker is not operating this weekend, so no excursion or swim in the north sea! I am not sure what else there is to do in Kemi, in time I will know!

Pooh alerted me to the fact that Finnish families travel with their animals, we are on the train with a bulldog, a black lab, a spaniel cross setter and a cat.

I would have to say showering under a garden tap would have been more successful!

Some might claim it was one sleep down, I would say a night passed. My room is on a wing at the end of the hotel and it seemed that if someone closed or opened the door my whole room would vibrate!

The shower was an adventure this morning; it had a bath mixer with the hand shower extending up on a pole so you could set the height. Now the mixer was waist high... And flipping the switch from mixer to shower, the water decided it didn't like the hand shower but sprouted out of the mixer regardless. So handfuls of water and lots of crouching were done to go through the daily ritual of getting oneself clean...

Once dressed and ready to face the world, I confidently marching out, I was greeted by tumbling rain which I was not dressed for, so opted to go hibernate in the breakfast hall. Seems the hotel is full with a number of people participating in a world cup of sorts. Lots of fit looking people cruising this joint!

Now, Helsinki, in a word - majestic. Flying into Finland the landscape was just forestry and green. Loads of lakes. The city is moulded between new and old and the architects have got it right where somehow it works. The Grand

Marina is situated right next to the port where all the big ferries depart and arrive and trust me they are big!

Yesterday we landed ahead of time; we had about 15 people on the plane. A quick flight from Oslo to Helsinki saw us ahead of schedule. When we landed we sat waiting for a parking bay, but looking out the window plenty were available. Then we eventually slotted into one and the jetty wasn't ready. So we waited.... Ten minutes later we were off the plane. Hooray. All of us dashing up the jetty. At the top, as you set foot on the first bit of Finnish airport, surrounded by glass doors directing passengers which way to go... As we approached the glass door that would have released us out into the world, it sharply slid closed in the direction for boarding passengers.

Seven of us were trapped for an hour while various technicians tried to open it up... Eventually we again were released to discover our bags had been removed... So, we had to trek from one terminal to the next to find our belongings. After finding our airline office, having to go through security details we met up with our bags. Mine was soaked from the downpour in Oslo but happy that we were reunited.

Having been delayed for well over an hour I took the easy option of catching a cab to the hotel. Being faced with working out the public transport was too daunting at that particular moment.

Getting to the hotel after having dropped off two other passengers who accompanied me in the taxi, I dumped my bags and went exploring. I walked along the shoreline for forty minutes until coming to a spot overlooking a small craft marina. Sitting down to enjoy a beer, coffee (this may also have been the reason I couldn't get a wink of sleep...) and a burger I merrily sat surrounded by gorgeous looking crafts. Passer byers were an interesting mix of uber smart businessmen, tanned sailors, tourists and a few well dressed homeless guys picking out glass from the rubbish bins.

On the meander home along gravel paths and cobbled streets, I was treated to a picturesque sunset with an array of pastel colours. This was close to ten in the evening?!? Totally foreign if you ask me...

People were doing yoga on the lawns lead by an African American with a booming twang of a voice. Hundreds of people were jogging, walking their sociable dogs or just sitting enjoying the evening.

We are an hour ahead of you which has made for some interesting alarm settings. The first morning at Derek and Ange's spot I had the bliss of sleeping in. Waking up at 9am and then having a leisurely breakfast that DJ had laid out, including all types of coffee, tea, cereal you name it lined the kitchen counter.

After munching and catching up on the news, I went for a slow stroll left of the High Street and coming across an immaculate church with ancient headstones dating back to the early 18th century. On the way back I stopped at Marks and Sparks for a sandwich and enjoyed it at Derek's house. After lunch I went for a stroll right of the high street coming across the lakes and the river that was littered with Canal boats. Stunning. Spent ages here, enjoying the surrounding, the ducks and the dogs - one border collie even diving into the water fetching her stick. Very cute.

On returning home, I caught up on all the news on the UK riots, which was the talk of the lakes, everyone questioning what they were really about. A horrible terror had settled on everyone, theatres not opening, football games being closed, people not going to work. Everyone really angry!

Ange arrived early an hour after I got home. DJ a half hour later who changed from his monkey suit into his after-hours gear. We pottered for a bit in the garden, and then headed back inside for a mouthwatering dinner. First night were sardines, the second chicken livers.

DJ and I chatted about cameras and I eventually retired just after 10 I think. Confidently setting my alarm.

I then tossed and turned worrying about buses, flights, transportation only to be relieved when the alarm went off. Jumping out of bed, running through the shower and packing my final things, I headed through to make some coffee only to realise that I was an hour early... So quietly turned around and headed back to my room to wait for a more sociable hour to make a noise...

Anyways, all is well. I am sitting in the hotel lobby. Bags are all packed. In forty minutes I will go for a walk to the tram station and head on to the central railway station where I will meet Helena at ten. Our train is at 11.

We are almost off to the north :)

Hugs from this side of the world :) have a great day!

A sailing boat marina with a picturesque walkway wrapping around it.

Finnish colours that brightened up every part of the city.

The sunset across the way with yet another lifeboat that was littered along the walkway.