Paris - in the wake of Je Suis Paris

Surrounded by the backdrop of a typical European winter, I escaped the sweltering heat here in Durban to ‘chill out’ in France for a bit.

It was fascinating being in Europe, specifically France shortly after our rand collapse and of course, the terror attacks in Paris. My extravagant itinerary of exploring the northern parts of France and tumbling into Belgium was halved due to our dire exchange rate. Instead, I reacquainted myself with Paris and Bourges and then tumbleweeded my way, via the Chateaux Chambord, up to the breath-taking parts of Le Mont Saint Michel and then down to Nantes before returning back to the capital.

My first quest of this adventure: I have attempted to be one of the lucky ones to purchase tickets for the annual, massive French extravaganza, entitled Les Enfoirés. Tickets for this concert sell out faster than a Mumford and Sons concert in Durban and in the last seven years my attempts have been consistent, that of 100% unsuccessful! Les Enfoirés usually takes place over six nights, with majority of the indoor venues able to seat up to 5,000 fans – you do the maths. The whole of France vie for these tickets, and travel from all corners to be a part of it to catch the likes of Zaz, Zazie or Calogero.

This musical type of vaudeville travels around the country, each year a different city plays host and this year, the venue was the massive, forever-transforming arena in Bercy, Paris. The AccorHotels Arena that looks like it is this grassy hill in the midst of a concrete jungle; below ground is a hub of space that shapeshifts for all different occasions. A couple of years ago I was able catch Bourges Basketball compete in the Coupe de France finals at this setting, then a huge basketball stadium, now morphed into a huge concert hall holding thousands of fortunate fans.

As in previous years, my hunt for a ticket remained fruitless so for my first evening I resorted to plan B, picking up a kebab from my favourite take-away located outside of Gare-Du Nord, and after an uncomplicated metro ride I feasted at my picnic spot, sitting dwarfed by the magnificent gothic cathedral, the Notre Dame.

In the wake of Je Suis Charlie and Je Suis Paris, all of the ‘tourist attractions’ have evidently beefed up their presence of law enforcement. A mixture of excitable tourists attempting to capture the moment, pausing in an array of poses was combined with heavily-armed, slow-wandering, observant soldiers weaving through the statuette visitors. On the perimeters, both police and transit police would keep a distant, watchful, suspecting eye on the crowds.

This trip, I opted to minimise my use of public transport and walk wherever possible. Having no actual commitments or plans, besides the outline of accommodation, a FIBA Euroleague basketball ticket and two SNCF inter-city train tickets, I was free to do as I pleased. Armed with only a metro map and a vague idea of where the main attractions were in Paris, I strolled everywhere.  From the Eifel Tower to the Grand Palace, the Louvre to the Opera House, a mosey along the Seine River and down Avenue des Champs-Elysees heading towards the Arc de Triomphe or huffing and puffing up the hill to the Sacré-Cœur Cathedral with a gorgeous panoramic view of Paris. Mooching along small side streets I discovered some fabulous street art, some wonderful galleries, some quirky book stores and even a few decent street side cafes.

If you were to ask me what my soundtrack to Paris would be, I would sadly confide police sirens. Convoys of police vehicles charged through the city streets constantly, flashing blue lights and blaring sirens breaking up the usual bustling city sounds.  A sad reality of the current state of France.