The second part to this whirlwind trip was in the heart
of the Berry Province, a city called Bourges. The city dates back to about
50BC, with the main architectural attraction, the gothic cathedral of Saint
Etienne, built in the twelfth century. Ranked as a World Heritage Site, it is
considered as the earliest example of the high gothic style of the thirteenth
century. Simply put, if I were to wed, this certainly would be the venue for
the ceremony. It is utterly magnificent, the stained glass windows are heavenly
and the intricate carved detail on the exterior façade is mesmerizingly
beautiful. The inside is just as glorious, the light coming through the
windows, the massive airy space, you can climb up to the tower and get an
angel’s eye view of the city or go down into the crypt.
As is tradition over the last decade, I had the privilege
of catching one of the final pool games of the Euroleague basketball season for
Tango Bourges in their recently unveiled shiny new stadium lovingly called The
Prado. Led by the ‘tricolour’s’ captain, Celine Dumerc who was the game hero
that evening firing 15 points, the home team playing to a capacity crowd were
victorious against Polish visitors, Wisla Karkow with a 63-45 win.
A highlight for me in Bourges was reconnecting with a
fabulously keen couple at the pristine stadium. My first time ever watching a
live basketball game, an elderly man was the usher at the old Bourges
Basketball Arena and quickly surmised that I didn’t speak a word of French and
in a grand-fatherly way guided me to my seat. Our next meeting was in
Montpellier, the French League game we were both attending was held on France’s
Independence Day and locals were celebrating at the game with pancakes and red
wine. This dear old man sought me out and proudly presented me with an offering
of both.
In my basketball travels, I have met France’s number one
supporters in Istanbul, Sopron, Ankara, Paris, and just last year in Timisoara,
Romania. I read an article stating that this retired couple spend most of their
winters travelling in their campervan to all of the games in Europe where Tango
Bourges or France are playing.
After the game, standing at the top of their raked
section, I waited for them to clamber up from their courtside seats. Halfway
up, he glanced up, stopped and alerted his wife and promptly announced to me,
and majority of the nearby crowd – Afrique du Sud waving cheerfully. We greeted
each other like long lost friends in French, but conversation beyond a jovial
greeting was limited as their English is non-existent, as is my French.
But the mutual love of the game for the identical teams has created a strong
connection between the three of us and each time I am at a game, I look forward
to meeting them.
No visit would be complete without a wander through the
Old Town; here you can amble along cobbled-stoned lanes lined with
half-timbered medieval houses that date back to the Middle Ages. It is believed
that there are still 440 of these medieval masterpieces still standing to this
day. Another must do is indulging in a draft on tap at the ancient Jacques
Couer Pub a couple of blocks from the cathedral and palace. Situated in an old
half-timber house, the inside of the pub takes you on a complete time warp to
centuries before. Stop in for something decadent at CakT, a petit slice
of heaven where you can refuel on a delicious cup of tea and a mouth-watering
array of desserts.
Of course visits to the Jacques Couer Palace, the Jardins
near the Cathedral and the train station, or if you are in these parts in May,
there is a hearty music festival that is well worth a stop. Bourges is magical,
but I wouldn’t recommend a stay longer than two days.
Departing the centre of France, I made my way north west
to the coastal area of Saint Michel!
