Sunday, January 5, 2014

Sailing from Mauritius to Durban - Part One Mauritius


Let me begin by saying that I am not a sailor; I have just had the absolute privilege to odyssey across oceans by form of yacht.

My latest adventure began in the picturesque setting of Mauritius with the final destination of my hometown, Durban. The beauty of travelling by yacht is the opportunity to stop off at some truly magnificent hidden gems on our planet.


I met the vessel Topaz in Grand Baie, a popular tourist destination for obvious reasons, the turquoise glistening ocean lapping on to golden sands, exquisite palm trees framing the beaches and the kind locals habituating in the quaint village surrounding the bay.


Topaz had been anchored in Grand Baie for ten days and I joined the crew for another two nights floating in tropical paradise. During the steamy hot days, I walked around Grand Baie, cruising along the shoreline admiring a variety of boats anchored in the bay; a number of beautiful Hindu deities had the eternal setting of Grand Baie, along with a very Nordic-looking church built right on the water’s edge. In contrast to the pristine area, just beyond a jetty in dire disrepair, the remains of a tall ship jutted out of the water adding some mystery to the bay. Returning back to the boat, I meandered past a variety of architecture, along with some quirky tourist arcades.


The perfect setting was interrupted by the roar of fast flying speed boats zipping dare-devilish through the anchorage, carving wakes for their skiers that they were dragging behind them. The evenings however were blissful, with postcard sunsets rewarding our stay as we sipped on exotic colourful cocktails from the resort bars.


We enjoyed a tranquil slow sail from Grand Baie to Port Louis, the capital of Mauritius. Safely tied up in the small marina, Topaz, a 51ft Australian built Adams monohull, was dwarfed by the tail-end of the lavish Oyster fleet that were circumnavigating the globe. Added to the mix of circumnavigators were three yachts, a German couple on their yacht Wigwam. Sailing in convoy were two ketches that had been cruising for three years, an American couple and their two teenage children sailing on Azimuth and a Canadian couple with their three children on Viatrix.



In the capital, I had one day to explore the bustling town, admiring the waterfront that was a smaller, carbon copy of our V@A Waterfront. The main promenade had the funkiest shade, with an array of multi-coloured umbrellas casting shadows below creating a rainbow awning above the busy walkway. The neat, well-kempt town was a joy to wander around. Discovering the local hangouts set on the outskirts of town, the massive horse track, modern day office blocks standing tall next to ancient buildings housing retailers, urban parks adding some greenery to the concrete terrain and a number of places of worship dotted around.


Our departure time was moved forward as our skipper, Rob Ferenczi had been warned that our next port of call had a tricky entrance and with the tides, we needed to get there before 07:00am. Our departure time was now at sunset with the weather looking very favourable for a gentle sail to Saint Pierre, Reunion.


Enroute back to the marina, a number of people were gazing heavenwards, cameras and cellphones all snapping at something in the sky. Curious, looking up I saw a perfect halo circling the sun, I took this sentiment as a blessing for our upcoming passage.


Our last adventure on land was acquiring a bit of fresh food from the charming fruit, veg and traditional medicine market. The traders all enticed us with their wares but only a handful spoke English, so our trading and bartering was done with good old hand signals.



As the sun began to set on Mauritius, we departed in convoy with Viatrix. Next stop the French island of Reunion.


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