Bilene Mozambique

Whenever I chat to my older sister Tina she says she lives in Paradise.

Tina and her family have been living in Mozambique for a handful of years and they pure love it. They live a fair way up the coastline but my most recent adventure only took me a few hours north of Maputo.

After an exhilarating 70minute flight on a 30 seater Airlink Jetstream 41, we landed in the capital, Maputo. One thing that is evident is that the airports in Mozambique have all had a posh new makeover. After a quick queue in the customs and immigration, we grabbed our bags and made our way out into the bustling metropolis of Maputo.

Our airport transfer was keenly waiting in the arrivals hall and took us out to the car. We were greeted by the reality of being in Mozambique. An unwavering police officer was waiting patiently for us to award a ‘fine’ for parking in the hotel transfer parking. After an attempt at reasoning and negotiating, cash was handed over.

It took a while for our host Marriana and her husband Johan, who doubled as our transfer chauffeur, to brush off the welcome we encountered, but eventually they did and the trip began to lighten up. We were flying along impressive new wide roads that had recently been built by Chinese prisoners as we made our way north out of Maputo. Leaving the city behind, we made our way into a more rural setting. The trip lasted nearly three hours, with only two stops by the traffic authorities – we managed to escape without parting with any metical. Another stop was essential to pick up supplies as our destination was self-catering.

Arriving at San Martinho Beach Club, I have to admit I was extremely impressed with the setting. The accommodation that was home for the next four days was right on the water’s edge.  The two floor unit was clean, comfortable and kitted out with everything.

Our lounge and outdoor entertainment area spilled out onto the pearl white sands and into the inviting turquoise natural lagoon. The flat had four bedrooms, three upstairs and one downstairs with one of them having the luxury of an en-suite. I snaffled the main room that was closest to the sea and for the next three nights I fell blissfully asleep to the tranquil sounds of the water lapping onto the beach.

Our first evening we stayed in and dined out with a magnificent spread, Adrian my travelling companion who can put Jamie Olivier to shame in the kitchen, whisked up a peri-peri chicken with some veggies we had acquired at one of the road side traders. The homemade peri-peri sauce was donated by our host Johan, the creator of the delicious marinade. The traditional dish was accompanied by an icy cold 2M beer or a ‘doshem’. 

The evening was quietly enjoyed gazing out over the water; there were only a few twinkling of lights across the way.

During the night the wind picked up unpleasantly, so our itinerary changed from water based activities to exploring the town. Durban could take a page out of Bilene’s tourism guide, we ventured to the southern side of the lake, around the main part of town and towards San Martinho Beach Club, I didn’t spot one piece of litter. There was such an aura of pride, even with the humble traders peddling a number of colourful items; their small domain was spotless and inviting.

Breakfast was at a quaint spot called Mar Azul. Run by a local lady and her Portuguese husband, the venue overlooked the main street so you could relax and refuel as you watched the world go by. The restaurant doubled up as the local butcher as well.

Our meals were both a local dish. Adrian braved the Mozambican Breakfast, an omelette that arrived with a bit of a surprise; a small bony fish graced the plate accompanied by fried chips and a simple garden salad. I ventured for the more English breakfast style, having the sausage, scrambled egg, salad and of course fried chips - the sausage turned out to be more of the Vienna variety. Chips made an appearance next to all of the items offered on the breakfast menu.

There after we spent our time visiting a handful of other resorts in Bilene. From the beautiful rustic Praia do Sol Chalets in the south, to their ultra-posh neighbours Humula Beach Resort. We ventured into the suburb discovering how the locals lived.

The next day, the wind had died down sufficiently that we could venture out onto the water. A small fishing boat came to collect us and took us across the huge lake to where the water escaped into the Indian Ocean. Our gentle skipper anchored the boat in a crystal clear still bay. The crystal clear water begged to be snorkelled in but we opted to hike up to Turtle Bay.

After about forty minutes we stood high above the sea, looking out. Our guide tried his best to tell us in Portuguese that in years gone by, the water below used to be home to hundreds of turtles. The beach used to be littered with evidence of eggs and the roaring waves used to have these magnificent creatures breaking through s they played and fished. We stood up there for ages imagining this time long ago how spectacular the sight must have been.

Eventually we made our way back to the boat and slowly motored to the northern most tip of the lagoon. Stopping off at a fairly rustic bar and restaurant, Villa N Banga. Lunch was a delicious Prego roll, served with the owners very own mango atchar. As a perfect lunchtime companion, a round of R&R’s was delivered.  A firm favourite amongst travellers and locals alike, the drink is made up of Tipo Tinto Rum and a Sparletta type of Raspberry juice.

Being so near the water, the breeze died down enough and we eventually got onto the lagoon, spending the late afternoon paddling out on a brightly coloured sturdy sea kayak. The lagoon looked a bit like an elongated, squashed outline of the United States tipping its cap and our efforts got us only half way across, not so sure Bridgitte Hartley would have been impressed.

Our trip to Bilene slowly wound down to a hurricane, a Saboroso hurricane at the trendy new bar and restaurant at the Tenda Tora Lodge.  The fabulous potent and utterly moreish cocktail designed by Tenda Tora’s owner was served in a jam jar. The food on offer was mighty tasty, fresh and recommended.

The next morning we departed San Martinho early making our way to Maputo. All too soon we were back in the sterile airport environment sitting in no-man’s land. Our time in Bilene was now a memory.

·         Malaria and mosquitoes are a major issue. Travellers to Mozambique are urged to take the necessary precautions.

·         Sea urchins were a slight challenge on the lagoon’s edge when we visited, suggest taking a pair of hardy diving bootys so you can swim and walk in the water.

·         Bilene is a small town but if you are not mobile, then it is quite a trek to head into town

·         San Martinho Beach Club is a self-catering resort. Eating out can become quite costly, so come prepared

·         If you are flying with Airlink, be sure to pack lightly – especially your hand luggage as it is a compact plane.